UPDATE: Another simple panel completed: I had to use few tiny screws to hold it down due to surface curvature. Also found that using proper roller and quality paint I'm getting much better results in appearance comparing to spray can paint. Lower side panels next on the list. UPDATE: I went back to fix minor issue with middle vertical monitor position. As you see on the picture below, rear monitor housing is attached to the back of the monitor using aluminum tape ONLY. It is just how this model has it done: While monitor sits on the MIP backer, gravity tents to do the decent job and pulls the front of the monitor down, separating back housing from the front and showing it in excess at the bottom edge through panel cutout: At some point it dropped low enough that it become getting in the way of the AML switches on the panel below. Using a leftover aluminum 1.5" angle, I added a support for the front monitor so now both, back housing and front, are equally supported. Angle is installed on the back of the MIP tower and goes under MIP backer sticking far enough to the front to hold everything in place: This picture shows monitor position AFTER adjustment: Also, I took on lower side panels based on Shane's design. I need to make few adjustments and come up with the adjustable way to mount it to the shell ribs in few points to give just enough space for future seats. Also, a little compartment needs door on both sides: (Posted by Shane Barnes on 02-07-17) The interior is looking great! Also the compartment door or cover on the real lower side panel is held in place with Velcro. I could not remember if I had shared that info on the Hangar. Also just to give you something to think about, at the very back of your lower side panels next to the rear wall would be a great hidden area to mount some speakers. I didn't think of this when I was at this point in my build. (Posted by Maciej M. on 02-08-17) I have a 5+1 system (5 small speakers plus sub-woofer) used in past with computer, that I'am planning on using in my sim. Satellite speakers are small enough to hide them in small spaces as Shane mentioned. Sub-woofer might find a home within central pedestal where Ron has his butt-shaker installed. Originally I thought about cutting couple openings under the seats and mount bigger size speakers there and enclosing them from the bottom to amplify low frequencies but that would require a decent amount of work to redo entire audio system. What I have is ready and just needs to find home without making too much of the mess. It's going to be much easier to find new home for butt-shaker stick, for example attach it to the bottom of the base along with some metal contraption to help carry over vibrations. What I do need to figure out now is a correct position for both black panels. I know that Lear seat is 17" wide at the widest point. Not sure about bottom edge of the lower panel that meets the carpet and how far away it is from central pedestal. Front edge (or edge that touches side kick panel) sets the angle but rear edge can swing in and out allows me to adjust the distance at the rear wall. Any help would be appreciated to figure it out. I'm planning on making it adjustable so it can be tweaked later on. (Posted by Steve Leduke on 02-10-17) I was actually thinking of using a Bose Acoustimass system for mine, along with the Butt-Kicker under the throttle pedestal. Also, question, how would one simulate force-feedback through the yokes along with the stick-shaker for AOA/stall warning? (Posted by Maciej M. on 02-13-17) That is one brave idea trying to implement force-feedback. Interfacing it might be much easier than actually designing actuators to operate it. Not even sure, since most likely in RL (Real Lear) if there is much to "feel" since it is powered by hydraulics. UPDATE: Couple weeks ago I received from Randy a set of Rudder Pedals and I am here to report that this is a MUST addition to your sim! If you need set, this is exactly what you need! This is a HEAVY DUTY and QUALITY piece of ART! Pedals are linked with each other using adjustable rod at the rear bottom and they are synchronized! Everything is PLUG & PLAY which is a great bonus that I didn't expect. Randy took care of all wiring and electronics needed to get this awesome set to work straight from the box. Brain of this unit is a LeoBodnar BU0836 control card that collects all wires from all pots for USB port to communicate with software: This set is unique. With help of couple linear actuators and excellent design, both (pilot and FO set) can be moved back or forth for your comfort (independently). To get it to work you will need a couple of 2TL1-7 Honeywell switches that you can order from onlinecomponents.com Hooking it up and getting to move it is pretty straightforward by simply reversing polarity on each end of the switch. It is a very sophisticated design that Randy managed to give such a simple and clean look: If you need a set please contact Randy for details. I couldn't be more pleased with it. It was truly worth waiting for it. Thank you Randy UPDATE: For the last few weeks I was trying to find little hex drive wood inserts that I could use to mount FDS cards along with other electronics and power supplies on the back side of the firewall. I got this idea from Alan and found it very interesting. Due to the size of the holes in FDS cards the only size I found suitable was 6x32. If you would try to size up to 8x32 you are not going to be able to feed the screw through the hole in the FDS card. It's just too big. I have tried a lot of places including local furniture shops, fastener supplies, big chain stores local hardware stores. No luck. The only place I managed to find it was through supplier on Amazon. Here is the part I am talking about: Link to the product I got HERE. What I like about it is that with proper depth it won't protrude through MDF leaving nice and clean way of mounting things where needed. (Posted by Randy Buchanan on 03-19-17) Wow! Thank you for this incredible review. Good pictures as well. Maciej is a very patient fellow indeed because it took me a long time to finally provide the set he now has. It may have been over a year from the first time he said he wanted to buy a set from me. I made a lot of small refinements along the way. I can hardly wait until you get to fly them. I don't know of anything I could do to make them better at this time, I guess you could paint them green! Don't you dare! (Posted by Shane Barnes on 03-21-17) Randy the rudder pedals look awesome! Much different than the early photo you sent me. I agree with Maciej, this is going to be a must have item. I'm already planning on adding your pedals when I do some upgrades to my build. Maciej thanks for the review and photos! Also thanks for the link to the wood inserts. I was looking for these a few weeks ago with no luck. At some point I am going to add these to my center pedestal. I have removed my panels on the center pedestal numerous times and some of the screw holes in the wood have worn out. This would be a much more durable solution. (Posted by Will Sasse on 03-22-17) Wow! Randy's rudder pedals are impressive!! Re control board fixing to wood: I bought a box of brass 1/4" PC motherboard standoffs and screws (eBay) - hex body with male thread one end and female the other, screws and fiber washers to match. They come in many sizes, I chose 1/4" just because I found them in bulk first! Easy to use: - mark mount hole positions directly from board to wood - drill pilot hole (no bigger than shaft of screw) - screw in standoffs (using a socket wrench is easiest) - mount board to standoffs using screws and washers Can mount/remount board as often as you like, brass nuts don't mind... Can fix to any material you can drill holes in... Same size screws for each board, so if you drop one.... No 'shorting' issues of board touching painted wood panel... Looks pro too!! I'd post a photo but my sim is still in 'being moved' mode - just a pile of boxes. (Posted by Maciej M. on 09-14-17) Received package in mail today and inside couple of: Very excited for new addition to mountain of parts and pieces to be put together in near future. (Posted by Shane Barnes on 09-14-17) You will like using an iPad. I'm assuming you are planning on using Foreflight. If you are I highly recommend it. Looking forward to seeing updates of your project! (Posted by Maciej on 09-15-17) That is exactly what I'm planning! Meanwhile I was working on CWP and got it hooked up for testing. I got myself into some trouble applying too much voltage and burning some LEDs that had to be replaced. Middle 2 white ones need a hair more than 3V to lit up correctly. What you see is hooked up to 2 x1.5V AA batteries. If I plug third battery to make it to 4.5V it gets too much for red ones but enough for white one. I didn't wanna risk and damage any of them again. I replaced all to make sure I got even brightness throughout. Very happy with results. Next time they lit up its going to be through FDS card: Here is short video showing Randy's Rudder Pedals in work using Honeywell @TL1-7 switch. Linear actuator travel distance has been successfully adjusted: Yesterday I received replacement for broken switch that is mounted inside linear actuator. One of the connector legs from old switch broke off during removal and was beyond repair, at least my initial approach got me to the point that switch was beyond repair so I had to get new one. Unfortunately closest source was in Hongkong and I had to get a pack of 40. New connector has been mounted in proper spot limiting travel of linear actuator to where it needs to be. Both rudder pedals are installed and connected with each other. Steering dampeners are installed as well. This is the bracket I manufactured: This bracket along with 4 sets of thrust bearings per side allows self adjustment of dampeners based on position that pedals has been set for at the moment. FO side: Side view showing how steering dampener has been attached to rudder pedals: Pilot side: Rudder pedals installed and centered. I widen the U-opening in ramped floor to 4" to eliminate minor rubbing. Each set has its own steering dampener installed: Today I worked on ground terminals again... Previous outcome wasn't satisfactory. 1/32" copper clad that I used, was flexing way too much so I switched to 1/16" with much better results. I don't have CNC machine so I had to improvise: I used my dremel along with few leftover pieces of 1/2" MDF to create something that would let me slide copper clad along and get some repetitive results: Wow Maciej - nice progress. I need to make a trip up to see it in the flesh so to speak this coming spring. Glad you found the correct inserts for the FDS board stand-offs. I don't know why Lowes doesn't carry them. I got mine from a local hardware store that has since gone under. The alternative using computer MB stand-offs seems like a good idea. AlanMaciej's L45-013 Project and Updates!
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2017-10-10