Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:09 pm

UPDATE:

A little more progress done today. I managed to cut the holes in base and mount control columns. Still need to research how to mount springs and attach steering damper out of crotch rocket. Ron - you mentioned that installing second one may be a neat idea in the future (?):

 

 

 

 

I did check and nothing gets in the way so unless there is a reason for that 180 switch, I am planning on leaving it the way it is.

 

Also, I found post about skipping metal contraption for the column system that is attached to on the bottom side, that brings columns back to center. Not sure how to proceed.

 

(Posted by Ron Rollo on 07-21-16)

I would turn that steering dampener bracket around just in case the nut gets in the way of the TQ pedestal side wall. That is the only reason why I would switch it.

 

As for the sub floor spring assembly, I think you are going to find that you are going to need it or at least something more somewhere.

 

I have had a few real world pilots fly my sim and they say that the feeling (pitch stiffness) is pretty close to what feels natural. It may be possible by addressing the pitch stiffness all on the top side with stronger springs. You could also try using the soft side of Velcro and zip ties.

 

Note: In the photos where I have the zip tie around the green barrel, I have the soft side of a piece of Velcro under the zip tie. I thought I posted a photo of this up somewhere.

 

Anyway, my thoughts would be to do something like this on a larger scale down on the column crossover. You might want to experiment with it before building the sub assembly like I had to do.

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:13 pm

(Posted by Maciej M. on 08-19-16)

Control Column Kit, that I received from Ron, has been fully installed including "contraption under the floor" along with all springs:

 

There were some problems with proper spring choice to be installed under the floor but local hardware store had what "looked right" and it seems like it may work well. I won't know for sure until I get columns. Well, I don't think I ever find out if this is what we need... since I never had a chance to get a feeling from RL (Real Lear). The spring I used under the floor is made by Century Spring and has number C-133.

 

Also, as previously discussed, I added second motorcycle steering damper to the kit hoping to increase stiffness but I won't know until I have columns completed all the way up and running. I purchased it on Ebay for $12.99. It was missing ton of power steering fluid but it was an easy fix. It took few attempts but all air is gone and now it works like new.

 

Here is final work. Pay no attention to blue tape. It has been applied to mark important spots on base platform:

 

It looks good and feels good! I think spring assembly underneath is important. Purpose of it is to help columns go back to center, not only to create resistance in movement.

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:22 pm

Today was a wrestling day. I wrestled shell on its base. I literally wrestled it! It took half day to get it perfectly where it needed to be. Before foam and fiberglass, everything was dead on the spot. Afterwards, not so much so it took "few" pushes and pulls to get it done. For some reason symmetry wasn't there today. I think that foam during cure along with fiberglass and weight that was put on it slightly twisted the shell. It wasn't by a lot but enough to get confused to where find reference point for proper alignment:

 

UPDATE:

Today is the day!.  All pieces I was working on recently together:

 

 

 

Installed inside Shell:

 

 

 

Now I got to take it all apart and paint it.

 

(Posted by Ron Rollo on 09-12-16)

This is a big day indeed! Everything is coming together and it looks good. It looks like your LCD monitors are lined up properly as well. Great job! Your rivet work looks great too!

 

One thing that I can't see if you did or not was round off the corners of the "L" brackets. They need a .25 RAD curve on them according to photos that we have. We call the one under the glare shield the light shade. And the one behind at at the bottom of the MIP is just extra bracing but I did this to both pieces. You can mark where you need to trim and then use your bench belt sander to carefully remove the aluminum material. Let me know if you need a photo or two of what I am talking about.

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:24 pm

(Posted by Maciej M. on 09-13-16)

Today, while I was doing THIS:

 

 

 

I SPOTTED at KROA being serviced, THIS:

 

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:26 pm

UPDATE:

Newest addition to my sim project:

 

Found on eBay.

Snagged for $495

Pair of Lear 45/60 yokes along with FAA form 8130-3.

 

Hopefully this form gets handy if we decide to go motion in the future...

 

(Posted by Shane Barnes on 10-19-16)

Glad you got them and a good price as well. One of those items you need to grab when you find them! Now to find the black switches p/n C2006 and the red switches p/n C2006R or equivalent and trim switches.

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:41 pm

(Posted by Maciej M. on 11-26-16)

Little update on my project.

 

Throttletek TQ is a fit. It needed a tad of trimming here and there but it fits our build. Top plate might be too short tho, not sure about it yet:

 

 

I may need to rebuild TQ pedestal for the third time. Bad quality plywood that doesn't hold together and chips really easy at the edges.

 

I think top edge is going to be just fine. Bottom edge is what I am worrying about. There is a gap about inch long from the bottom edge to TQ pedestal. Also, pay no attention to missing spoilers lever. It sits on the table to the left along with both left and right wall that had to be removed for fitting.

 

(Posted by Ron Rollo on 11-26-16)

Hey Maciej, It sounds like you might need what I call TQ hold down bracket along the top edge of the TQ panel. Once I see the photos I can better access this.  If all else fits fine, I can cut you a piece that will fit along the bottom to fill in that space. It looks sharp and looks like it fits well otherwise.

 

(Posted by Maciej M. on 12-02-16)

Despite decent appearance of the Throttletek TQ, this product will require MAJOR overhaul.  First problem I experienced was a malfunctioning backlit. 5V LED are "soldered" to flexible flat cable AWM20624:

 

Backlit after connecting to 5V DC became cheap Xmas tree, some sections were no lit up at all, some were flickering. There are NO resistors attached to LEDs. Strip with LEDs is mounted to the bottom part of the top plate with electric tape. LEDs needs to be remounted along with resistors on similar flexible flat cable wide enough to accommodate new 12V LED along with resistors. I am not sure if I can put just one common resistor OR each LED needs its own.

 

LEDs are mounted parallel:

 

There is a piece of gray fabric glued to the entire bottom of the top plate with certain sections removed. It serves as a dust cover. It needs to go. I would like to implement Ron's solution and have movable flexible PVC strips.

 

Flaps lever handle and bucket are too narrow. Top left edge of the bucket is visible through the top plate. Flaps system is not working smoothly. It has a tendency to stuck and gives weird feeling of fighting it while changing flaps position. This most likely can be easy fixed by trimming edges where flaps detent system stuck:

 

Emergency brake switch is pull only, very short pull actually, mounted to the top plate, just a click pull type and no turn to lock. It needs to go and proper assembly installed:

 

There might be a need to move or remove some of the 4 internal "walls" where variety of elements are mounted. This would be a major change since 4 internal plates hold everything together:

 

Detent system for Throttle levers needs a fix. There are two cabinet ball door latches attached to each side of the throttle levers (total of 4 latches). Idea is smart, execution not so much. Both ball latches are NOT in sync (they might be in line tho) causing it to click twice with each detent position. They also differ in size, most likely due to to limited mounting space. One latch sinks into another backs. It's going to be really hard to find an exact spot for both of them to be engaged at this same time and get ONE click sound. Most likely I leave bigger ball latch working and place two pieces of aluminum on each side. One side will have holes, another with no holes, where latch ball engages:

 

 

 

All pots are rotary except for spoilers which is linear. Spoiler pot is mounted to the very left wall that needs to be relocated to the right. Spoilers detent system is mounted to the left wall as well and needs to be relocated to the right. Spoilers detent system has only 1 detent:

 

All pots are glued with some gray epoxy and CA glue. Good luck trying to remove it.  I may do some cosmetic changes to TQ levers "Idle to shut off" mechanism otherwise is good to go. Not sure if I can implement option to disable to engage reverse thrust levers using solenoid in the future:

 

Brain of the TQ is Leo Bodnar BU0838 USB card. Not sure if I can reuse it:

 

TQ sorta fits on TQ pedestal. I would need to come up with few support points to hold it in. To fit it I had to make few notches but rear side of the TQ does NOT have a proper support.

 

All mechanical parts are over-greased.

 

What I am gonna try to figure out is if I can use Ron's TQ kit to rebuild it. Since there is soo much to fix, it might be easier to start from the scratch and use as many parts as I can and manufacture missing pieces.

 

This unit is NOT worth over $1,5k.

This is the link to the TQ gallery with all TQ pictures HERE.

(Posted by Ron Rollo on 12-02-16)

Man, maybe you are right. Starting from scratch and using some of the key elements from this unit and my kit is the way to go. At least with my kit your fit and attachment issues are fixed from the get go. If you decide to go with my kit, I will not drill some of the holes that are specially used for the real parts. This way you have more flexibility. The more I think about it, this is the way to go. It will be a fun project for both of us!

 

(Posted by Mark L. on 12-07-16)

Seeing the review and breakdown of that TQ, I think Ron and I had pretty darn good designs and for half the cost. It just became to time intensive to continue building them. The backlit TQ covers were the hardest for me to make due to having to bend them after they were painted and engraved and try to get them perfect. I used a very thin cardboard like circuit material (scissor cut clad) that I used acid to etch out the circuits for the lighting. Due to the circuit design, no resistors were needed, I think mine used 24 or 28 SMD LED's.

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:44 pm

(Posted by Maciej M. on 12-16-16)

I'm doing some planning on wiring and connectors. I decided to go with Shane's idea and use MTA-100 IDC connectors.

 

Since most of the SIMs wiring is done with 22 gauge, and knowing that some MOLEX connectors will be required in few places I am planning on using 22 gauge type connector (with tabs). Tabs (little wings at the bottom of connector), allows only ONE way to connecting it. In version without tabs, connector can be reversed 180 degree. They are much smaller on the size that MOLEX and should help with cleaner and neater picture after all wiring is done.

Here is a picture of FDS-SYS4X card that it appears to have proper notches at the ends of each connector allowing "tabs" to slide in and not worrying that connector is attached wrong (reversed) way:

 

Goal is to eliminate unnecessary connectors between FDS cards and panels. There is going to be a connector at the panel side allowing it to disconnect and remove panel but then one piece of wire straight to destination (for example FDS card)

 

Please note that MTA-100 connectors comes in many sizes from 2 to 28 connect points giving a flexibility to choose what is needed. FDS card needs 10-point connector.

 

(Posted by Shane Barnes on 12-16-16)

Just a reminder, make sure you label both ends of your wiring harness so you will have an idea as to what the wiring goes too. You will appreciate this later when you need to do some maintenance or disconnect wiring etc. The wiring harnesses become quite confusing months from now!

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:50 pm

(Posted by Maciej M. on 01-15-17)

Got TQ pedestal rebuild and it fits perfectly. I had to rebuild it 3 times to get it right. Pieces are painted and I am still considering spraying it with flat clear coat to protect it from scuffing. I threw few panels on just to add some flavor. Got carpet fitted and working on side kick panels now:

 

 

 

I picked up a set of heel plates made to specs at the local metal shop:

 

I know that heel plates are off set and not lined up evenly. What should be the exact distance between TQ pedestal left wall and first (right) edge of both heel plates?

 

(Posted by Randy Buchanan on 01-18-17)

I would say the center line of each plate should be 11 1/2" and that will line up with the pedals. I will send you a picture if I can. So you should use the center line of the cutout for the pedals as the place to measure from. So half of 11 1/2" is 5 3/4" each way. Left and right. Right? I agree with Eric nice work. I hope you can lift the carpet section out to install the pedals. This is really cool.

Quote from HunkaBurninLove on February 1, 2018, 2:52 pm

(Posted by Maciej M. on 01-22-17)

Kick panels completed: