Forum Navigation
Please or Register to create posts and topics.

Jet45 Arduino Interface Software Update

PreviousPage 2 of 2

Hi Bryant,

Glad to see your back and ready to get back to work on your sim.  We have all been there sitting with lost data and configuration files.  Lesson learned.  I have everything I can't live without backed up in three places, including a thumb drive in fire safe!

As to your issue at hand, first, Jason stated that he has everything working using Arduino card interfacing.  This is all part of his Jet45 v2.0 and our future Master Interface Plan for v2.0.  In the next week or so, we will be releasing a document that illustrates how it will all work, a "Prerelease" version of it just so that you guys can get a glimpse of what the future of our Lear45 sim will look like.  It is very exciting and I think you will like it!

All the Arduino modules, as an example, the RMU 1 module, will be plug and play.  The Arduino on that module will be flashed with the sketch (code) and there is nothing the end user needs to do.  It is going to be as easy as plugging in an out of the box CH Yoke!  More on that later.

In the meantime, you and everyone else is working with Jet45 AAS version 1 which uses the FSUIPC offsets.  I don't have my sim up and running so I will not be much help with the fine details but I can give you some information that might help.

Myself and several others use (and used) the Pokeys56U to program the RMUs.  The Pokeys56U works great for this area of the sim because it is one of the cards that CAN handle encoders.  I don't have any experience with Mobile Flight but I am pretty sure they can support encoders.

There are some interface cards that will not support encoders.  As an example, all of the FDS SYS cards via their InterfaceIT Software will not support encoder functions.  (Others may not be aware)

If you do happen to use the Pokeys56U for your RMUs, Mark L. created a little RMU Install program that makes it super easy to configure each of the RMUs.  It is not necessary to use this little program to configure your RMUs but it is handy.  You can find it HERE

(Use the RMU No Gear Utility)

If you are still having issues configuring the RMUs, please let us know.

Hi Ron,

 

I know it's been a long while since we've dialogued, In the early stages of constructing my sim, I was using the Pokeys, but I'm not sure if you remember, I had soem issues with that interface as well, it also had it limitations, and let's not forget the cost of this card.  It was a lot more expensive then the Arduino, and that's why I decided to just use it instead.  I've been using it now for almost two years now, and aside from the encoders, it work perfect.  Buttons on the RMU's program with the offsets perfectly.  However, I did use one of the FSUIPC Events, which did at least allow me to change radio frequencies in a sorta cheesy way, but at least it allowed me to tune to the frequencies.  About the plug n play that Jason is putting together, in order for the controls to work correctly, all the pin assignments would have to be exact on the Arduino card, My pin-outs are all over the place, and my Arduino card has specific pinout assignments that I'm sure are different then the ones Jason may have flashed to the card.  Would I need to re-assign all my pinouts in order for it to work correctly?  I'm using the 2560 card.

Hey Bryant,

Yes I must have forgot about the Pokeys that you tried early on.  I apologize for that.  Either Jason or one of the other fellas who have en depth Arduino knowledge will come along shortly and hopefully they can give you the help you need.

As for your questions about the future interface solution?  Jason is including a configuration option within his software that will enable the end user to program and assign pins if you have them mixed up.  So no worries there.

For clarification though, most guys who currently have a Lear45 sim up and running are using FDS boards, Pokeys, Leo Bodnar boards, etc with the first version of Jet45 AAS.   Everyone will have to pretty much rewire everything in their sims from scratch.  I know that sounds scary and even I had to let it sink in before I was comfortable with it.  But the benefits and rewards of the efforts will pay off big time!

Once we get the Prerelease version of the Interface plan posted in a couple weeks it will all be clear.  I can tell you that there will be default pin assignments and if you follow the document, there will be no need to even reassign any pins, encoders included.  The only pins you will need to insure you get right are the ground pins which is easy enough.  More on all the new stuff later.  For now we need to help get you up and running with what you have now.

Hi Ron,

I'd like to pick your brain on Arduino and LEDs.

Turning on/off LEDS. Do all LEDS need a resistor? Does Arduino take its 5v power from USB power. If USB power is used, does LED voltage need protecting?

Thanks

Hi Dave. Yes Arduino output 5V on the digital output pins. You will need an appropriate sized resistor to drive LEDs. Most LEDs run at 20mA at max brightness so you would need at least at 250 ohm resistor.  You might want to go with a 330 ohm just so you are not driving the LED at it max spec. Be sure to check your LED specs and apply Ohms law to calculate the needed resistor (R=V/I).

Jason Hite FlightDeckSoft

Dave,

I learned a lot about Arduino from here:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGs0VKk2DiYw-L-RibttcvK-WBZm8WLEP

I got entire kit to play around.

Hi Dave,

Believe it or not, I am not an expert on Arduinos, but I have learned a lot over the past couple years about what they are capable of while working closely with Jason.

Jason pretty much answered your questions for you and Maciej has a great suggestion as well.  I actually need to buy one of these kits to play with!

Here are the direct answers to your questions:

"Do all LEDS need a resistor?"  Yes, if you are planning to hook directly into an Arduino.  As Jason pointed out, the output from the Arduino on the digital pins is 5v.  Unless you are using 5v LEDs (which they do make), you will need resistors to drop the voltage down to approximately 3 volts which is safe for most 3 volt LEDs.  Double check your LED spec sheets.  You will see that most 3mm LED forward voltage is between 2.7 and 3.3 volts.

"Does Arduino take its 5v power from USB power?"  Yes, in our case of lighting up a couple LEDs.  There is however a pin on all Arduinos called VIN which stands for Voltage in.  We do not need to use it for what we are doing and it is used for things that need more current like motors or servos.  For a crap load of LEDs, you might want to look into using 16 channel PWMs.

"If USB power is used, does LED voltage need protecting?"  Yes, each LED has to be regulated via it's own resistor.  Otherwise, the LED will blow within a second.  Take note of what Jason said above about Ohms law.

Thanks Ron,

My LEDS are 6 volts not 3. Do you know if the Arduino is guilty of going above 6 volts?

 

Hey Dave,

I am probably not the guy to be answering this if you want a solid answer to hang a hat on, however, my first thoughts are that all Arduinos have a 5 volt power pin and we know that they can support LEDs up to 5 volts with resistors. So using 6 volt LEDs naturally does raise some questions.

As I said before, we use LEDs that require voltage between 2.7 and 3.3 volts but they all require resistors to drop the 5 volt output down to a safe level.

I did find this:

https://forum.arduino.cc/t/6v-led/62679

From what I am reading, it sounds like it is possible to light up 6 volt LEDs but it is not the LEDs you should be worried about protecting.  It is the digital pins on the Arduino that you have to worry about protecting or damaging.  Guys in that forum suggest to pull the spec sheet on the 6 volt LEDs you are using and see if they have a built in resistor.  Then do the math.

It sounds like you are using some sort of switch with a built in LED.  Is this the case?

My guess is that if you use a 6 volt LED with the Arduinos designed to have an output voltage of 5 volts, you will end up with LEDs burning 20% less bright, in other words, they will not be burning at their full brightness which may not be a bad thing, or maybe you need them to burn at full brightness depending on how bright they are at full power.

Again just a guess, if you end up using 6 volt LEDs, you will be putting MAXIMUM stress on the Arduinos only to get an LED burning 20% less than it's full capability.  I am not sure running a full compliment of 6 volt LEDs on any of the Arduino family members is a plan that has longevity.  This is just my guess.

What you could do is run a couple bench test.  Load up a Arduino Nano with as many 6 volt LEDs as you can and see how it preforms over a long period of time.  Turn them on and off periodically to put stress and shock on the LEDs and the Arduino.  You might end up damaging the Arduino Nano but at $4 a pop, it is an affordable experiment.

PreviousPage 2 of 2

Comments are closed, but trackbacks and pingbacks are open.