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Wiring Switches to FDS SYS Cards

(Original thread started on 01-07-12 by Eric Tomlin)

Wiring the FDS cards are a lot different than most other interface cards. The FDS cards have a very unique requirement of for every eight inputs or outputs, there is a single common ground. As in the FDS SYS Manual, you *MUST* keep them in the same grouping.

 

Additionally, it really doesn't matter what color the FDS pigtail is. Some use the white/black for inputs and purple/black for LEDs and some the other way around like you show, and if you're like me and have built some of these yourself, they are other colors. To keep mine separated, I simply tag the group of eight near the plug so I know it's going to a group of LEDs. As before (and in the FDS SYS Manual) you *MUST* keep them in the same grouping.

 

The FDS SYS cards are unique in that for every eight inputs (switches) or every eight outputs (LEDs), there is one common ground. That one common ground can only be used for that one group of eight. You can not cross or group grounds or you will find nothing works. The rule is 8 to 1. Eight signals for every one common. Once you have a FDS SYS card in hand and read through the manual it will all make perfect sense.

 

Where is gets confusing to us if you have never had a FDS SYS card is that a typical interface card like the Pokeys or the Leo Bodnar card can have one common ground for EVERY input on the card. Not so with the FDS SYS cards!

 

(Posted by Shane Barnes on 1-07-12)

Here are a few photos if you decide to go this route. Using this method you are able to disconnect all wiring at the back of the panel and completely remove it from the MIP or Center Pedestal, just remember to leave your connector tails long enough that you can pull the panel away from the MIP so you can unfasten your connectors. This will work for your LED's and switches.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/#

McMaster Carr has the ring terminals and small screws/nuts:

7113K256 1 Pack Standard Ring Terminal, Noninsulated, 26-24 Wire Gauge, #2 Stud

 

90272A080 1 Pack Zinc-pltd Stl Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, 2-56 Thread, 7/16" Length

 

90480A003 1 Pack Zinc-plated Steel Machine Screw Hex Nut, 2-56 Thread Size, 3/16" Width, 1/16" Height

 

This is a photo of all the grounds ready to be grouped together on the screw/nut:

Shane 65

 

This is a photo of the 8 grounds grouped together on the screw/nut, one wire coming off the group to go to the connector. Heat shrink has been applied over the screw/nut assembly:

Shane 66

 

At the bottom of this photo is the FDS connector with short wire tails provided with the FDS boards. These are good to solder to your switches at the back of your panels as they are too short for much else. In the middle is a male connector to connect the two female connectors together . . then on top is another female connector that you can add your own custom length of wire to run back to your FDS board:

Shane 450

 

Here is a photo of the tool you will need to attach the wiring to the female connectors and a photo of the connectors, AML switch is just to give you a size reference:

Shane 68

 

This photo gives you an idea as to how the tool works by pushing the wire down into the connector . . no need to strip the insulation from the wiring:

Shane 69

 

If you go this route here are a few part numbers to keep in mind:

Tool : AMP 59803-1 this tool is used for the AMP MTA-100 connectors

Female AMP CONNECTOR MTA-100 pn 4-640441-0 this is for 24 wire gauge

Male/HEADER AMP CONNECTOR MTA-100 pn 1-640456-0

 

(Posted by Alan Norris on 01-17-12)

Hey guys, based on Eric's direction, I did a short tutorial video showing how I wired my first panel (one of Eric's nice electrical panels) to the FDS pigtails. By no means is this meant to be the definitive way of doing this -- just the way I did it. I know that quite a few of you have already wired panels -- particularly DonnyRay (our resident electronics guru), this is not intended for you guys but for those of you who are just starting out as I am. I show some of the tools I used and I've provided links for each one. I also wanted to show the method I used to test the panel before putting it in the MIP. I have also included a simple wiring schematic to show how the AMLs are connected to emphasize the principals of connecting to the FDS pigtails which is very important.

 

https://youtu.be/kDTqfdmMX8E

 

Here are links to the tools I used:

Neiko 01924A Wire Stripper found  HERE

GC Weldom Molex Crimping tool  HERE

Grizzly H0800 Heat gun found  HERE  

 

BTW, you need to get a good wire stripping tool. Trying to strip 22 and 24 gauge wires with anything else will not work -- you'll end up cutting wires strands as well as the insulation.

 

Here is a simple wiring schematic showing how to wire the AML LEDs and push button switches:

Alan 19

 

I used the white wire pigtails that came with the FDS board for the LEDs and the purple wire pigtails for the switch functions but you can switch these if you want. Just make sure that you don't mix them up -- if you choose to use the white ones for LEDs, keep it that way throughout. One more thing, you will end up with 8 ground wires from your AMLS for the LEDs and you will need to connect these to the single ground on the FDS pigtail. You can twist these together or solder them.

 

Or, Ron Rollo makes this neat little board where you can connect the 8 grounds to a plug and then connect the single FDS ground to a terminal. This will allow you to remove the panels from your sim without cutting any wires -- simply unplug the connector. You can use these for the grounds from the AML switch functions as well.  You can find the Hangar45 link HERE

Ron 478

 

(Posted by Shane Barnes on 01-17-12)

Great video. This is sure to help up and coming builders. Videos are much more informative than photos and descriptions. Like the layout of your work area too! I really appreciate all the work you have done collecting information like the yoke parts list and taking the time to make this video . . all of this documented information is a great resource to all of our members.

 

(Posted by Alan Norris on 01-18-12)

Thanks guys. Here's a photo of Ron's ground boards with my wiring for the Electrical panel connected. I like this idea as it makes connecting all those ground wires to the FDS board a simple job. Thanks for coming up with that Ron:

Alan 20

 

(Posted by Ron Rollo on 01-19-12)

Great video Alan! 

RULE #1: When it comes to the FDS cards remember "8 to 1". What this means is that all the inputs and outputs are in groups of eight and each of those groups of eight have a dedicated common ground. DO NOT cross over the grounds with other groups. If you do, nothing will work. The FDS cards are not like a typical card where you can have up to 64 inputs and one single common for everything

 

As for actually wiring the switches and LEDs, there are many ways to skin a cat but the one thing that I would recommend is coming up with a solid plan that works for yourself. The good news is that many of us have already been down this road and have found out what works good, what works great and what does not work at all.  I have not done a wiring tutorial but the one Alan has posted up above is very good and informative.  I can point you to my personal build thread that has a lot of good photos and information as well HERE

 

The key is wire management. Spend the extra time with your wires making sure they are the right length, not too long and certainly not too short. Make sure you solder everything well and use shrink wrap to protect things from shorting things out. Spending the extra time doing these things will save you all that time back in trouble shooting. AND, you will feel confident that you have a sim that you can rely on.